The Versatile Appeal of Zinfandel

Cabernet Sauvignon is the king of Napa Valley, but Zinfandel has also played a pivotal role in California winemaking and merits royal status. And who can forget the frenzy White Zinfandel caused when it burst on the scene in the 1970s? But red and dry styles of Zinfandel, often made from old vines, have a long history in Napa and continue to captivate winemakers and consumers.

“Zinfandel is one of the foundational blocks of wine in California, having been the predominant grape planted here in the 1800s and early 1900s. We love to showcase this history and shift people’s perspective of how beautiful the wine can be when grown in the Napa Valley—and treated with the same care and attention as the greatest Cabernet Sauvignon,” says Katie Hayne Simpson, owner of Chase Cellars, whose family planted Zinfandel in 1903. She describes their old vines, at more than 115 years old, as “wise and storied.”

Descriptions of Zinfandel tend to emphasize its rich, jammy and spicy characteristics, but in Napa the flavor profile varies depending on the terroir and winemaking approach. “Zinfandel is one of the chameleons of the wine world. With the possible exception of Pinot Noir, no other grape reflects so well both the site where it is grown and the intent of the winemaker,” says Dr. J. Bernard Seps, founder of Storybook Mountain Vineyards. It released its first Zinfandel in 1983.

When Brown Estate Vineyards planted its first vineyard in 1985, it selected Zinfandel, and winemaker David Brown is committed to producing wines that express their Napa terroir. “Our goal has always been to let the vineyard lead the way,” he says. “Each vintage should tell the story of place and growing season. And from year to year, we find that story to be one of purity, balance and elegance.” Brown also touts the versatility of Zinfandel: “From bubblegum-pink wines to red wines, from high-octane fruit bombs to elegant, well-farmed, single-vineyard bottlings expressing the nuances of terroir, Zin can be many things to many people.”

Whatever your preference, there is a style of Napa Zinfandel that will delight your palate. “What I love most about Zinfandel is its ability to encapsulate the fresh fruit flavor that lures us into the vineyard at harvest time. From the vine to the tank to the barrel, Zin always tastes delicious,” says Brown.

At Chase Cellars, “They’re big wines, but never overpowering; they’re fruity but never jammy. They have round, supple tannins that deliver approachable beauty in their youth but can easily stand the test of time,” shares Simpson.

The Zinfandel style at Storybook Mountain is “a wine of enhanced aromatics (black cherries, raspberries and blackberries, with touches of cardamon and rose fragrance), palate intensity (fruit concentration, a touch of spice, without undue weight or cloying sweetness) and a lingering finish, that reflects both the nose and body of the wine,” notes Dr. Seps.

And when it comes to pairing food with Zinfandel, the options are infinite. Simpson suggests, “Barbecue and pizza all day! It also plays well with mild- to medium-flavored cheeses and well-seasoned charcuterie or roasted meats and fresh pasta. The list is long, but you get the idea. Zinfandel is a fabulous food wine because it’s not overly tannic and can even handle spicy foods without destroying your palate or the wine.”

Brown’s favorite pairing is “pizza and Zin,” but he also recommends paella or grilled tri-tip with plum rosemary sauce or chimichurri. Zinfandel is also a perfect match for formal occasions: Storybook Mountain Zinfandel has been served in the White House by three administrations.

And while White Zinfandel has taken some flak over the years, don’t count it out. Simpson said, “We appreciate White Zinfandel and refer to it as a ‘gateway wine’ because it helps a lot of people start their winedrinking journey and exploration.” She and other Napa producers have also given White Zinfandel a makeover and now produce drier styles of rosé with less residual sugar.

White Zinfandel is also an unexpected white knight that helped save the day for many of the elegant reds available today. Simpson states, “The strong consumer demand for White Zinfandel in the 1980s and 1990s allowed for the preservation of some of the oldest heritage vine Zinfandel vineyards to remain intact versus being replanted to other varieties, so it really helped keep Zinfandel alive and strong in California.”